In France, there is a very important distinction between ducks raised with the sole intention of being sold for meat and ducks raised for the production of foie gras. The former are known as “lean ducks”, the latter as “fat ducks” (quite fittingly, if you ask me).
Along with this distinction comes a special set of recipes reserved only for the “fat duck” or the foie gras duck. For instance, magret is specifically the breast of the foie gras duck. You can certainly eat the breast of the lean duck, but if you were dining with a Frenchman, he would certainly correct you if you called it magret (even though magret translates simply as “breast”).
So what is it about magret? We can sear it like a steak (relatively easy … and delicious!). We can make a confit. Or, we can cure it in salt with herbs for a few weeks and enjoy the delicacy known as magret séché. But remember! If we don’t use the breast of the fat duck, then no matter the recipe, it’s not magret, but simply … breast.
Magret is noticeably thicker, juicier, and more tender than the typical duck breast, and carries a good layer of fat beneath the skin. Overall, the foie gras duck or “fat duck” will provide a richer, fattier carcass than the ordinary “lean duck”. After all, the foie gras ducks enjoy a vacation and a hearty diet during their last couple of weeks on the farm.
So why is this important? If you want to enjoy duck, you can go to any number of dining establishments and order a variety of preparations, but the foie gras duck is not so readily available. Blessed indeed is the diner - or, as I like to say, “co-producer” - who lives in the vicinity of a foie gras farm that makes these lovely birds available to the public. I have no bias here.
The key take-away being that, to be sure that you are eating the true crème de la crème, check your menu for the source of the duck, or ask the waiter where they get it, or skip the bureaucracy and order one for yourself. Christmas is coming. The duck is getting fat!
Avec amour,
Ross
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The foie gras duck or “fat duck”.
Seared magret over greens with balsamic glaze.